WOOYOUNGMI BACKSTAGE AW18
For AW18, Creative Director Katie Chung redefines the WOOYOUNGMI man within the context of a new movement in menswear; the new romantic-bohemians.
Chung’s attention is on the emergence of a new tribe in menswear, young men who are fluid in their lifestyle and in their dress. They are artists in a non-traditional sense, moving freely between mediums – music, film, poetry, fashion – in their pursuit of self-expression. Their style blurs the boundaries of conventional menswear codes, distorting the signifiers. They unreservedly combine tailoring with vintage, high fashion and sportswear, sharp modern silhouettes with romantic layers, and luxury with streetwear. Their liberated, androgynous mood has undercurrents of Bowie. They are dreamers, lovers, non-conformists creating a new language; these are the new romantic-bohemians.
Chung presents a line-up of seemingly dissimilar elements and vibes, which when assembled create a picture of her muse. Elongated tailoring and outerwear alter the conventional silhouette. The familiar blue of classic shirting is newly romantic on oversized, billowing or pleated pieces. Hawaiian collars and neckerchief style knots introduce new shirting options. The opulence of baroque is casually worn in hoody form. Sportswear influences puffer-jackets in statement fabrics - velvet, corduroy and PU - worn with logoed track pants and zip tops. A squiggle embroidery applied to denim and outerwear creates a new quilting effect.
This season the romantic aesthetic is imbued with a mood of boho-rock. Chung envisages her muse slipping from a gig into the heady atmosphere of a backstage scene. Photos lensed by Robert Mapplethorpe of the music scene in New York in the early 70s - an unobtainable cool - inspires embroidered denims and lambskin leather trousers, mixed with shearling, velvet, oversized buckled leather belts and silver toe-tipped Chelsea boots. Like the icons of that time, the new romantic-bohemians are proclaiming a new moment in menswear.
Photography by Adrian Martin for Men's Fashion Post